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I had a lot of flanges that I needed to grind flat, so I bought a belt sander from Lowes. What a piece of garbage. Parts started breaking within 5 minutes of use. Here, we are using an electril drill to turn the belt after the orignal drive pulley stripped out, and then the drive belt broke. The sander got returned to Lowes once I finished with it. :) |
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Here I am spraying Tech Line's TurboX ceramic coating on my headers with a hobby-sized air brush. |
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Not much room in the garage, but it sure beats working outside in the cold, so I got used to working in small spaces. |
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It was about a 1.5 hour job just to bolt the headers to the heads. There's so little room. I modified an 8mm allen wrench to fit in there, and it was still difficult. Hopefully I won't have to remove the headers any time soon. |
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Getting spark plugs wires on there was also a challenge, but we modified the wires and changed the boots on a few of them. They should be ok for now. |
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That Craftsman compressor has taken one heck of a beating.. it's way too small for my needs, but it'll have to do for now. I had to put a new piston, ring, rod, and sleeve in it back in the summer. It is already knocking pretty badly, so I suspect the piston ring is already shot again. There's been days of heavy grinding and welding that I've had it running for over an hour straight. I know, too much for it, but I just had to have air. I think I am going to ditch the stock cylinder in it, and fabricate an adapter to use a York A/C compressor with the electric motor. I think it will be easy to make, and the Yorks are pretty efficient. |
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The Lincoln Precision TIG 185 in the corner made the fabrication work quite fun. TIG welding is awesome, and it looks pretty good, too. Still not great at it yet, but not too bad, either. I'm very glad I didn't have to MIG all of the parts that I made (which is a LOT). |
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There it is.. that's what I've been working towards since last September. I will be cleaning up some of the wiring and hoses later on, but for now, I'm just trying to get it running before I have to move to PA for VW training. |
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There's the crossover Y-pipe that I made to get the air from both turbos into the same inlet on the Powerstroke intercooler. |
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It was very tight, but Dennis and I were able to get a 3" downpipe off the turbo through there. I am so glad I went with solid motor mounts. If that engine torqued over with rubber mounts, the pipe would probably hit the side of the strut tower. I had to move the brake metering block and some brake lines to make it fit. |
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There's the upper intake that I made and the fuel pressure regulator on a custom mounting bracket. You can also see some of the fuel rails that I fabricated. |
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Passenger side Holset HY-35 turbo. |
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Passenger side again. Compressor outlet on the right side, and intercooler outlet on the lower left side of the picture. The intercooler outlet goes through the passenger side fender and around to the intake. I did it this way so that I could fit everything under a stock hood (minus some of the underhood supports). |
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I had a heck of a time finding v-band flanges for the downpipes out of the turbo, so I just made my own flanges out of some 4" pipe. It then reduces down to 3.25" pipe (both pipes were left over from my Powerstroke truck exhaust). I also was not able to find/buy the stock Cummins v-band clamps, so I bought the closest one I could find, and then I modified the clamp to fit tightly. What a pain and time-killer, but I think it will seal and hold well. The driver's side v-band flange came from the stock exhaust on my Ford Powerstroke truck. Had to modify that clamp as well. |
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Here you can see my crossover pipe, Y-pipe, intercooler, and intercooler outlet. |
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....and another shot of the driver's side downpipe. The only way to get the pipe in or out is to remove the turbo. And even then, you have to twist and turn it just right to get it around the steering shaft, strut tower, motor mount, and header. |
